Finding Game Easier By Using A Compass

When I hunt, I like to have a compass near my gun or bow at all times. I do this so that when I take a shot I can quickly compare the direction of the game to the compass bearings. This allows me to climb down from my deer stand and follow the bearing on the compass towards the last position I saw the game fleeing towards. This makes it much easier to find the initial blood trail especially in heavy brush, thick foliage, or surroundings that seem to all blend together making it harder to establish memorable or distinguishable landmarks. This also helps me to find my direction back towards the stand or campsite once the game has been recovered.

How To Signal Rescuers

Some of the most popular forms of signaling rescuers are listed and explained below. I will also release a more advanced list in the next upcoming months as well.

Fire – the most common Internationally recognized signal for a fire is three fires shaped in a triangular pattern. Three fires in a straight line equal distances apart is also a recognized signal. Keep in mind that visibility may come from either an airplane or helicopter so the distances between each fire need to be enlarged as well as the fires themselves. Even though it may look adequate from the ground or your perspective, try to imagine it from the rescuers perspective and plan accordingly. Fires are best seen at night rather than the day, so your best course of action is attempting this during nightfall.

Smoke – Whereas Fire is easily seen at night, smoke can be seen for up to several miles away during daylight. This will require a large fire that will not be easily interrupted by adding large amounts of green vegetation. Once a large fire is built and stabilized, throw on a massive amount of newly cut green vegetation onto the fire. This will create a large white plume of smoke for signaling. The Internationally recognized smoke signal distress call is three separate plumes of smoke. To produce the signal you will need a large coat, sleeping bag, blanket, or animal skin. If water is available then soak the item used to signal to avoid it catching fire. Cover the fire for about one to two seconds between smoke plumes to create a signal with three breaks in the cloud.

Signaling Mirror - This method usually works best at an area of higher elevation so if there is a hill, cliff, plateau, or other high spot, try signaling airplanes, helicopters, or boats from this area. You may have a signaling mirror in your survival kit but if not try to recover something shinny such as a flask, car mirror, aluminum can turned inside out, anything that could reflect sunlight. Using the object, try to point the reflective surface towards your target and move it from side to side and up and down rapidly but steady to signal. Any heavy cloud cover, foggy conditions, or thunderstorms will decrease the intensity of your reflective signaling so aim for clear and sunny conditions. Sometimes it is helpful to cut or poke a small hole in the center of the reflective object to look through in order to make it easier to aim. The larger the surface area, the better your signaling capabilities so try combining multiple objects in one large assembly to better increase your chances of being seen.

Trail Signaling – Although it is always advised to stay near a vehicle, airplane crash, or other easily spotted objects, sometimes because of food, water, shelter, and fire making one must travel away from their origins. If you do so, there are ways to help rescuers find you given that you’re not originally where they discover an area. You want to leave as many clues as possible as the rescuers themselves have gone through advanced training in order to help locate you. If you head in a general direction, try assembling a series of arrows made out of logs, lumber, rocks, or written in sand near the vehicle. If you have any orange tape, make small flags leading from that area to your campsite. If you don’t have any other means to mark a trail, use your knife to mark an X among trees, break sticks and brush over in an obvious fashion, or drag a stick into the ground while applying pressure to help leave a trail.

SOS – The SOS symbol is also widely known and recognized. This can either be composed of as a symbol or even radioed in using standard Morse code. The Morse code for SOS is 3 dots (or beeps), then 3 dashes (or longer beeps), followed by 3 more dots (or beeps). You can also try composing a signal using rocks, logs, green brush, or anything else that would stick out and spell SOS. Just like any signal, make sure it contrasts with its surrounding so that it will be easier to sport by rescuers. Also keep in mind that it will be viewed from far distances so be sure to make it large enough to be spotted. Something that looks to be sufficient from the ground may be almost invisible from the air or water.

Advanced Fire Producing Techniques

These techniques will require lots of practice before mastering the art of making fire with natural objects found within your environment. The three most common ways to produce fire naturally include the following methods:

Hand Drill – This method requires you to collect two pieces of dried wood. The Drill piece needs to be about 10 inches long, about an inch or so wide, straight, a hardwood, and cylinder shaped. The base for the hand drill needs to be a semi-flat, soft wood, and be large enough not to move while using the drill. A slab of bark from a fallen tree often works well for a base. Whittle down one end of the piece designated as the drill into a curved point. Also whittle down a small impression into the base approximately the same size. Place the curved action end of the drill into the impression into the slab and starting from the top and working down, apply pressure downward moving your hands back and forth from top to bottom. You can also put a pinch of sand within the impression to help increase friction. If you don’t have any success then you can relocate another notch within the base to try a different portion of the slab. You can also try cutting a triangle shaped notch out of one of the sides of the slab and then making another impression right where the point of the triangle intersects. This will help introduce more oxygen to the hand drill helping increase the likelihood of producing fire. Continue using the hand drill and increase the speed of moving your hands back and forth more aggressively until you get signs of smoke or hot embers.

Fire Bow – This method requires you to collect three pieces of lumber and a smooth rock. The base and drill for the fire bow are the same as used by the hand drill listed above. The main difference here is that you are going to assemble another tool which will resemble a miniature bow. Locate a slightly curved stick and stretch cordage from one end to the other with just enough slack left between the two ends to wrap the drill in a fashion where moving the bow back and forth will turn the drill. Now, find a rock that is approximately the size of your palm, is fairly smooth, and has a slight indention on one side so that the top of the drill will stay in place easily. Next, place the curved action end of the drill down into the impression on the slab. Then, place the rock on top of the other end of the drill and apply pressure. Now move the bow back and forth while still applying pressure to the drill with the rock. Continue to do so and speed up the rhythm of moving the bow back and forth more aggressively until you get signs of smoke or hot embers. Once again, you can add a pinch of sand to the impression on the slab in order to help increase friction.

Wood/Fire Plow – This technique often reminds people of using a sanding wedge. It will require the same slab and drill that are used for both the hand drill and fire bow methods. However, instead of notching out an impression into the slab to insert the drill vertically, you will need to cut a trench to run the length of the slab or about 6 inches. Now while applying pressure and holding the drill at an angle, push it front to back in a fast pace to create friction. Small bits of wood that will resemble saw dust will start to form at the drills stopping point. Try a combination of stroke lengths starting at around 3 inches long and work your way down to as little as an inch worth of movement or until signs of smoke become visible.

Traditional Fire Producing Techniques

These fire starting methods are the most basic and require little to no prior training or experience.

Matches –Waterproof matches are best and typically the larger the match the less likelihood it will be blown out or affected by wind or moisture. However, standard matches can be made waterproof by using candle wax to coat the heads. Some matches can be split down the middle doubling their numbers but be aware that by doing this it will make them more likely to be blow out by the wind.

Lighters and mini torches – lighters work well and often offer more fire starts than a bundle of matches. Waterproof lighters are also a good choice to offer more protection from the elements. Mini torches are typically waterproof by nature but be sure to read the product label in order to confirm that that’s the case. Mini torches offer great protection from the wind and have a higher likelihood of starting a fire in high moisture conditions due to the intensity and focus of the flame. Take EXTREME caution however not to burn yourself or leave them in direct sunlight or close to your body to avoid exploding or combusting.

Magnifying glass – a magnifying lens is a great way to start a fire that has many advantages over the other forms listed above. Glass or the like, are resistant to water, resistant to temperature, will never deplete like the fuel found in lighters or torches, and have infinite use unless they are broken unlike matches that are a single use only item. However they are limited based on sunlight availability making them hard to use in heavy tree cover. You can overcome this by making a fire bundle and producing fire in an open area and then transporting the fire back to camp. Depending on the power of the magnifying glass and general mass, direct sunlight is key.  This means that the best time of day to harness and focus the power of the sun is during the heat of the day especially if it’s a lower power or smaller lens. This will vary according to climate and geographic location but typically ranges from 11:00 A.M. to 2 P.M., more powerful lenses may be capable of still producing fire several hours before or after that time range. Regardless, don’t wait till dusk to then decide that you should start a fire, by that time it will already be too late as indirect sun light does not hold the same potential for fire starting. Your chances of starting a fire can diminish drastically after 4 P.M. So prepare to build a fire early rather than later. If you didn’t pack a magnifying lens, you can try to disassemble cameras, monoculars, binoculars, telescopes, etc… Also if you have a first aid kit, look to see if there is a lens that accompanies the tweezers.

Fire Preparation

Having a fire in the wilderness will greatly increase your chances of survival. Fire provides warmth from the elements, smoke to help signal rescuers, deters insects, a way to sterilize water and surgical tools if needed, a way to cook, light for your campsite or for igniting torches, keeping animals at bay, drying wet clothing, and keeping your spirits up!

Location – When it comes time to build a fire, location is critical. Start by surveying the land to find an area that is flat, dry, and somewhat wind protected. You also want to insure that it is located in close proximity to your source of timber, water, and your survival shelter.

 

Preparing for Fire – it’s very important to have the fuel for your fire already collected and some other forms of setup completed before you try to produce fire. You want to ensure that all your hard work will pay off and the last thing you want to do is produce a flame but not have anything setup to burn. Preparing for producing a fire really consists of collecting timber, preparing a fire bundle, and assembling your primary fire setup. When collecting timber, try to gather three different categories. The first is Tinder which is very small and thin items that can be easily ignited by flame such as dead grass, bird nests, old pine needles, feathers, cotton, dried moss, or dried leaves. Regardless of which types of tinder you collect, the main requirement is that it is bone dry. The second type is Kindling which is small to medium sized sticks or twigs that could be ignited by the Tinder. This also needs to be extremely dry as well and usually works best if it’s broken up in lots of smaller pieces ranging anywhere from 1 to 5 inches. The third type is often referred to as Fuel which is large logs, large branches, or large sticks that can burn for longer periods of time and will make up about 75% of your initial firewood collection. If you find larger items that are still wet, try placing them in a circle around the fire once it gets started to help dry them out rotating sides every one to two hours. Try to collect as much wood as possible so that your fire can last through the night. A simple rule of thumb here is collect what you anticipate to use for the fire and then double or triple it. People that do not use wooden fires frequently often underestimate how much firewood is actually used.

Fire Pit – to build a fire pit, dig out the soil about 5 to 8 inches deep in about a 3 foot circle. If large rocks are available then line the outside of the fire pit to prevent any hot coals from escaping. If rocks are not available you can also use leafy greens to line the perimeter which are hard to ignite but will still prevent hot coals from being blown by the wind. Don’t use river rocks which may have the tendency to explode or crack when placed next to a fire. The last thing you want to do is start a forest fire, so take proper precautions to avoid accidents. It’s also a good rule of thumb to try and strip vegetation back about 2 to 3 feet around the perimeter of the pit to reduce the chances of secondary fires.

How To Find Water Sources

There are many techniques that can be used in order to help locate sources of water. Several different types of animals and insects can help signal that you are getting closer to water sources.

Insects

Bees – Bees are a very good indicator of water and usually won’t build a hive far from a significant water source.

Ants – ants rely on water and usually locate their nest within 50 yards of their sources however it’s typically a small amount or may come from water captured within crevices, plants, or tree bark. Each yield a very little supply of water but tapping into several sources could help add up to a sufficient amount of liquid.

Flies and Mosquitoes – Flies and Mosquitoes don’t typically travel more than 100 yards away from water sources. These water sources are typically a little more abundant than those of ants.

Birds

Grain eating birds require water at dawn and dusk and are good indicators of water. However birds of prey are not good indicators of water as they usually obtain their water from ingesting their prey.

Reptiles

Reptiles are typically not good indicators of water sources as they acquire most of their water from eating their prey.

Mammals

Plant eating mammals are also usually not found far from water sources as they too also require water intake at dawn and dusk. They also usually create large animal pathways that lead from watering holes to food sources which are easily found within wooded areas or grassy areas. Follow these large animal trails downhill or towards the bottom most point in order to best locate water.

Edible Insects - Section 1 of 2

Despite which insects are discussed below, the important thing to remember is that it is always better to cook them over flame instead of eating them raw. Even if you were to pick an insect that contains venom or other harmful toxins, bringing the bug to a good boiling point or roasting it over a flame can cancel out the harmful effects. Some insects can also carry parasites which will also be killed during cooking helping you avoid ingesting something that would be more harm than good. Generally, cooking insects will also help with taste. Some black ants found among the world have a strong vinegar taste to them raw but taste much better after being boiled. If you prefer, you can also remove the insect’s wings, thin legs, or even entire head, all of which usually contain little nutrients anyways. Only eat bugs that are found alive, there could be reasons a dead bug is a dead bug. Poisons, pesticides, and insecticides can all be ingested by insects but can usually be purged from them if you happen to be suspicious and have enough time to wait. Capture the insect in a container and introduce new greens for them to eat, after 24 hours they will have passed any harmful chemicals they may have been carrying. If the insect dies within that 24 hour period, then discard it.

1)      Watch for bright colors that usually suggest that they are poisonous. Sometimes this means only parts of the insects, not entire portions. For example, yellow legs, red antenna, orange wings, etc… Also, don’t attempt to eat any insects that have noticeable or obvious stinger attachments which are usually either located at the head or rear of the insect. Many insects have triangular rears that may look like stingers but are in fact anal exits used for waste. If you’re not sure, take a stem of grass or stick and interact with the insect to see if it repositions itself or a portion of its body to strike at it. Most experts recommend avoiding eating stinging or biting insects. However, some insects such as Scorpions can have their stingers cut off and can be cooked over a flame and eaten. However if you’re uncertain whether or not you should eat an insect or find yourself questioning your actions, you’re better off passing on the opportunity and moving on to candidates that you are more comfortable deciding upon.

2)      Watch for the insects that just bumble around in the opening carelessly and are not timid towards you or frightened when moved with a stick or other objects. There is usually a reason that they are not frightened by you, birds, lizards, or other predators. Stick to the bugs that seem timid, try to hide, stick to the brush line, or foliage for cover.

3)      Don’t eat any insects that have a repulsive smell or handle them. If you’re unsure, use a large leaf or sharp stick to pick them up and inspect them for odors. It is very important within close range that you close your eyes upon putting your face close enough to smell them. Some insects are capable of spraying poison or other toxins in short distances so be aware and try to have their side facing you. Most insects capable of spraying toxins usually do so from the front or back of their torso.

4)      Most experts generally recommend avoiding hairy insects as well. The vast majority of insects deemed hairy are inedible, don’t offer much protein or vitamins, or are poisonous. Tarantulas are a good exception to the rule and can be roasted over a flame. In some countries they are even considered a delicacy.

5)      Do not eat disease caring insects such as flies, ticks or mosquitoes. Ingesting these can often do more harm than good and offer very little protein anyways. 

Termites – Termites are loaded with protein which can help you recover some of your strength and are the second most eaten insect in the world. They can be found in several different locations including fallen logs, damaged trees, and damp wood rich areas.